The front elevation is the first image buyers see in a listing. It needs to be perfect — it's your one chance to make a first impression.
Finding the best angle
Don't just stand on the pavement directly opposite the front door. Walk up and down the street and look at the property from different angles:
- 45-degree angle: Often the most flattering, showing depth and dimension
- Straight-on: Works for symmetrical properties (Georgian townhouses, semi-detached pairs)
- Slightly elevated: If the property is below street level, shooting from across the road can add presence
- Including context: Sometimes showing a neighbouring property or the street scene adds value
Camera settings
- Focal length: 24-35mm on full-frame (avoid going wider to prevent distortion)
- Aperture: f/8-f/11 for maximum sharpness
- Keep the camera level: Converging verticals (walls leaning inward) look unprofessional. If you need to include the roof, step back rather than tilting up.
Preparation
Before shooting the front elevation:
- Move wheelie bins out of sight
- Park cars on the street (not the driveway)
- Close garage doors
- Sweep the path and driveway
- Remove any temporary items (delivery boxes, garden waste bags)
- If possible, ask neighbours to move cars that obstruct the view
Timing and light
The front elevation looks best when the sun is hitting the facade. Check which direction the property faces:
- South-facing: Best in the middle of the day
- East-facing: Best in the morning
- West-facing: Best in the afternoon
- North-facing: Overcast days give the most even light; direct sun rarely hits the front
Sky
A blue sky with white clouds is ideal. Grey, overcast skies can be replaced in post-processing, but a naturally good sky saves time and looks more authentic.
Dealing with obstructions
Real-world front elevations rarely have a clear, unobstructed view. Here's how to handle common problems:
Parked cars: Ask the homeowner to move their car before the shoot. If neighbouring cars are in the way, try shooting from a higher angle (across the road, slightly elevated) to minimise their presence. In post-processing, minor car removal is possible but time-consuming.
Street furniture: Lampposts, telegraph poles, and road signs are permanent fixtures. Adjust your shooting position to minimise their impact — often a step to the left or right is enough to move a pole away from the building's edge. Cloning out a lamppost in post is acceptable if it significantly improves the image.
Trees and vegetation: Overhanging branches can frame a property beautifully, but overgrown hedges and unkempt trees look neglected. If the property's own vegetation is blocking the view, ask the homeowner to trim it before the shoot.
Neighbours: Terraced and semi-detached properties inevitably include neighbouring homes. This is fine — it shows context. But avoid including neighbours' messy gardens, overflowing bins, or unsightly extensions if possible.
Vertical correction for exteriors
Keeping verticals straight is even more critical for exterior shots than interiors. A building with leaning walls looks like it's falling over. Use your camera's electronic level, keep the camera perfectly horizontal, and correct any remaining convergence in Lightroom or Photoshop.
If you need to include the full building from roof to ground and can't step back far enough, take two overlapping shots — one of the upper portion and one of the lower — and merge them in post. This avoids tilting the camera upward, which causes the worst vertical convergence.
Key Takeaways
- The front elevation is the most important image in a listing
- Try multiple angles — 45 degrees often works best
- Keep the camera level to avoid converging verticals
- Time the shoot for when sunlight hits the facade
- Prepare the exterior: bins, cars, paths, and garage doors
Progress saves automatically in your browser — no account needed.